Mark way out on the second pitch. The leftmost anchor bolt, with the rope running through it, was the catch point for two HARD falls from the spot where the first rivet now is.  Two different flakes pulled off as Mark moved up his aiders on them.  Each time, Mark fell about 25 feet, zooming right past the anchor.  Those falls generated so much impact force that I was jerked six feet up out of my hammock, and my belay plate was slammed up against the anchor bolt.  Each time, Mark would hand-over-hand back up the rope, anchor himself again, lower me back down into my hammock, and then head out on hooks again.  After those two falls, we had to retire Mark's lead rope. Those two falls had been so intense that a permanent flat spiral was burned into about 20 feet of his rope's core.  We decided to not tempt fate.

We had thought that belaying would provide some break from the leading, but it proved to not be the case.  We were getting jerked up and slammed into the anchor bolts so often that we grew to dread that "ping" sound that a failed hook makes, then that sliding "whoosh" sound as the leader came whipping down, then the awesome impact.  Ultimately, we learned to spend most of our belaying time in what we called the "launch position," which a later picture shows well.

It is difficult at this point to remember how many or how long of falls we took.  We were falling a lot, although more on some pitches than others. For example the sixth pitch is a very hard  and dangerous pitch, yet, amazingly, Mark didn't fall on it even once. Some other pitches were less dangerous, and we ended up falling more often. I can certainly understand the desire people might have to know the statistics of our falls, but we simply didn't maintain any records of falls and their distances.  We went up there expecting to fall a lot, and we weren't disappointed, but this just didn't seem notable to us at the time. Just in the first two pitches we collectively took about 120 feet in falls in the first 150 feet of the route.  We were taking falls all the way up the route, and we logged hundreds of feet in falls, most of them in the 30-foot or less range.  The nature of the route is such that a climber has to figure out what line of flakes to use, and a wrong choice is going to result in a fall. This is no "climb by the numbers" route, where the leader can follow a line of obvious features, drilled placements, and enhanced hooks.